The clutch plate biting or engagement point or friction zone of a motorcycle clutch can change over time and vary within the clutch lever’s working travel. Every clutch lever travelling depends on the type of clutch, how well maintained the clutch cable is, how worn the clutch plates are, and the types of motorcycle configuration. So expect the bite point to be in a different location on every motorcycle. Before moving to the motorcycle high clutch plate biting or engagement point, let us first understand what Freeplay is.

Freeplay is the amount of lever movement from the rest position of the clutch to the point of cable resistance. Clutch lever Freeplay as manufacturer settings should usually be 0.5 mm-3.0 mm. To find it, you can measure the gap between the clutch lever and the lever housing. Adjustment of clutch lever Freeplay if necessary and should be checked if you are feeling any slack.

Check out this Universal Adjustable Brake and Clutch Levers with the following features:

• Universal fit for most motorcycles with 7/8inch (22mm) handlebar.
• Levers are made of CNC aluminium and anodized in the same colour for high durability and no fading.
• Both sides have a rearview mirror base, easy to install without drilling or welding.
• The six-gear distance can be adjusted to facilitate the use of different riders.

A wrong adjustment can seriously affect clutch operation and duration. Also, a worn clutch tensions the clutch cable. This is because of the starter interlock switch which is dependent on the clutch lever Freeplay being set correctly to ensure activation of the clutch safety switch.

Do remember to check the clutch cable for kinks or signs of wear. If necessary, have it replaced by your dealer. Lubricating the clutch cable with a commercially available cable lubricant is required to prevent premature wear and corrosion.

Lever Freeplay adjustment must be carried out with the cold engine and the motorcycle on its side stand, and the handlebar fully turned to the right. Squeeze the clutch lever toward the handlebar and release it. It should move freely and smoothly, and it should return to the rest position quickly when released. If the lever fails to perform as stated, service the clutch lever before riding.

When operating the clutch lever (1), you must feel the passage from meagre resistance to very high resistance (driving force).

Determine ring nut (2) and adjuster (3) position; ring nut (2) must be at a distance (A) of at least 5 mm* from the lever rotation plate (4) and must not touch edge (5) of stop plate (6).

Operate the lever through its free play and check that distance “B” is between 2 mm and 3 mm*.

Adjuster (3), located on the lever, allows a maximum adjustment (C) of 11 mm, whereas the standard adjustment (starting one) is 5 mm*.

Motorcycle clutch plate biting point or engagement point

You can essentially release the clutch lever just before and just after the clutch plate biting or engagement point as quickly as you like. At the biting point, you need the transition to be smooth and steady with the clutch lever.

When the clutch is released past its biting point, the plates engage, and the engine will provide power to the back wheel. Keeping the clutch held inconsistently while riding is called “coasting” and is best avoided by motorcyclists. That is why it becomes essential to master your clutch control and get used to feeling where the biting point is.

The best way to find the clutch plate biting or engagement point on a bike with a cold engine is by taking it off the kickstand and with the motorcycle on its side stand, and the handlebar fully turned to the right. Start the engine and put the motorcycle into first gear. Make sure to do this on a flat surface so that you can keep your hand off the brake and not roll. Start to slowly release the clutch until you can feel the bike wanting to pull away: this is the friction point or biting point.

Do this gentle micro movement just enough so that you can pull the bike back with your feet – there should be no need to touch the brake. Pull the clutch back in and repeat this process a few times to store it in your muscle memory. It’s worth doing a quick check of where the biting point is on every bike you ride.

Adjusting high clutch plate biting point or friction point

Actually, the clutch levers on small-displacement bikes don’t have a big throw, to begin with, and therefore adjustment is pretty significant. If your fingers are long enough, set your clutch lever on 1. This will maximize clutch lever travel giving you the best chance for full disengagement as you pull the lever to the grip.

Upper Lever Adjustment: Firstly, try to make adjustment with the upper clutch cable adjuster.

• Pull back the rubber dust cover.
• Loosen the upper lock nut.
• Turn the upper clutch cable adjuster until the Freeplay is as per the manufacture’s prescribed limit in the owner’s manual. Usually, it is between 1mm to 3mm.
• If you want your biting point to be lower than prescribed for your motorcycle, then you need a bit of slack. This will increase with the Freeplay ‘mm’ you increase.
• Tighten the upper lock nut and recheck the Freeplay.
• Install the rubber dust cover.

Adjusting biting point with burned Clutch plates

Actually, small-displacement bikes only have a few clutch plates. It’s entirely possible you might have burned your clutch just not completely. It’s like taking a considerable amount of life off it, and you’ll probably want to replace it. If it’s biting very far out, it could go at any time and leave you stranded.

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